Soups & Braises

 This painless version of a "beef stew" has been done simply and forever in the countryside of France. Inspired by a Jacques Pepin recipe, who got it from his mother, who got it most likely from her mother(and so on, and so on...), the flavors are deep, the technique minimal.

Two things stood out, screamed out from this: First, the beef is cut large as in just smaller than a tennis ball, not those standard 2" pieces normally used. And Two, only wine is used as opposed to including some stock, which results in a flavor so intense it's as if demi-glace has been included. (It has not!)

Daube de Boeuf in Red Wine

Prep Time: 1 hour

Total Time: 2 HR 40 MIN

Serves: 4

Ingredients: 

• 3-4 tablespoons unsalted butter 
• Olive oil 
• 2+ pounds trimmed beef chuck roast, cut into 8 large pieces 
• Kosher Salt or fleur de sel
• Freshly ground black pepper 
• One 5-ounce piece of pancetta, bacon or lardons, cut into thin 1” strips.
• 1 cup finely chopped onion 
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic 
• 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour 
• One 750-milliliter bottle dry red wine 
• 2 bay leaves 
• 3-4 thyme sprigs
• 1 Star Anise 
• 12 small Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled
• 15 small cipollini or pearl onions, peeled 
• 15 baby carrots, peeled and greens trimmed
• Sugar(Optional)
• 15 small Chantrelle or Hedge Hog mushrooms(See notes below.)
• 1 tsp chopped thyme
• 2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley, for potatoes + garnish

Directions: 

Beef… 

•Arrange meat on a large cooking sheet, then season well with salt and cracked pepper.

•Heat a Dutch oven to med-high, add 1 tbsp butter to melt and splash of olive oil.

•Set meat in even layer about the Dutch oven, making sure not to crowd. (May be necessary to do in batches.)

•Turn meat to brown on all sides. Then, remove to a side plate.

•Pre-heat oven at 325º.

•Add pancetta(bacon or lardon), staring occasionally until browned. Remove to a side plate. Drain all but a couple of tablespoons of oil.

•Add onion and garlic, stirring a bit so it doesn’t burn.

•Once onion softens return pancetta then meat to pan, dust with flour, stir to coat.

•Add wine plus herbs and Star Anise to pan, bring to light boil.

•Cover the casserole and transfer it to the oven. 

•Cook for 2.5-3 hours, until the meat is very tender. (Check at the 2.5 hr. mark as cooking will vary based on final size of portions along with the actual temp of your oven.)

•Taste sauce, season to taste with salt and pepper.

Potatoes…

•Set potatoes in med. sauce pan, cover with cold, lightly salted water by 1”-2”.

•Bring to a boil, then reduce heat slightly to light boil.

•Cook until easily pierced by pairing knife, then drain completely. Leave in pan.

•Add 1-2 tbsp butter, a large pinch of salt, a crack of fresh pepper and 1 tbsp chopped parsley. Gently fold together.

•Cover with lid or plastic wrap, set off heat

Veg…   

•In a large skillet or over-proof pan, combine cipolliini and carrots. 

•Add a splash of olive oil plus 1/4 cup of water and a large pinch each of sugar, salt and cracked pepper. 

•Cover and set in oven for 15-20 mins. 

•Uncover, check donees with a pairing knife; should be slightly firm, but with some give.

•Set back in oven for 10 mins. to allow all water to evaporate, and to add color. (Be sure to not over cook, prefer them with a bit of a bite to them.)

‘Shrooms… 

*On med-high heat add 1 tbsp butter in med. sauté pan, adding mushrooms once melted. 

•Stir to coat, then occasionally to cook evenly.

•Once softened and slightly browned, add thyme, a pinch of salt and a crack or two of pepper to taste. 

Serving… 

•Set 2-3 pieces of beef(size depending) in center of plate being sure to include sauce and pancetta bits, tuck veg about in groups: a few carrots, a couple of potatoes, some cipollini. Scatter mushrooms here and there.

•Dust chopped parsley loosely about the plate. 

Notes:

•Wild local mushrooms are used here, but based on season and accessibility, brown Cremini or even Shiitake can be used instead.

•Salt is added to mushrooms at the end to not release all of their liquid, and thus prevent browning.

•Chuck is the cut used here, love the way the meat becomes so fork tender. But, beef round can also be used, or even flatiron steak as JP prefers.

Roasted Red Beet and Leek Soup

• Prep Time: 45 Mins.
• Cooking Time: 1.5 hrs.
• Servings: 6

Deep, intense flavors, good comfort on a cold day. Most of the cooking time is simply the beets roasting/steaming in the oven.

Ingredients: 

Soup… 

•1 tbsp cumin seeds

•2 lbs. red beets, similar in size(halve if needed)

•Olive oil

•Kosher salt and fresh cracked black pepper

•1/4-1/2 tsp smoked paprika

•2 med. leeks

•6-8 sprigs thyme

•1-2 pieces bay leaf

•2 1/2 cups water(or chicken stock) + good splash

•1 cup plain regular yogurt(not Greek)

Garnish…

•1/4 cup crème fraîche

•2 tbsp pistachios, shelled, lightly thumb broken

•1 tbsp tarragon leaves

Instruction:

•Preheat oven to 375º.

•Set med. dry sauté pan on med. heat, add cumin, toast while shaking, 3-4 mins. Remove from heat, set a side.

•Trim beet stalks, leaving skin on, set aside greens for another use. Rub beets well with olive oil, set in 9”x13” roasting pan.

•Salt and pepper well, add cumin, smoked paprika and drizzle with a bit more olive oil, litter with herbs and bay, shake to blend.

•Carefully add enough water to fully cover the bottom of the pan(about 1/4-1/2 cup)

•Cover with tin foil, place in oven for 60-75 mins.

•Slice leeks in half, rinse to clean any sand/soil, shake dry, chop into 2”-3” chunks. Add leeks to beet pan at the 30 min. mark. Shake carefully to combine. Reseal, return to oven.

•When easily to pierce with pairing knife, remove from oven, set pan on cooling rack. 

•Once cool enough to handle, use a paper towel to gently rub away skin, quarter and place in food processor or blender. (See note.)

•Discard herbs in pan, then add leeks and and leftover liquid into food processor, along with 2 1/2 cups water(or stock) and yogurt. Blend until smooth, adding additional water if needed.

•Place soup in bowl, add a spoon full of crème fraîche(give a sweep with the backside of the spoon, if you like), drop a few bits of pistachio over top, finish by littering some tarragon leaves.

Note: When blending soup, or anything hot, it’s important to take very good care or risk being burned by liquid. In this case, raise the center piece of processor or blender to just above the opening. This will keep material from flying from blending “cup”, but also release heat so not create force to push out hot liquid. Also, try starting on a low speed, gradually increase.

Whole Hen Legs with Fennel and Meyer Lemon

Serves: 4

Ingredients: 

•1 large yellow onion

•1 bulb fennel

•3-4 garlic cloves, peeled

•4 whole chicken legs(see note)

•1 cup dry white wine

•1+ cup chicken stock

•1-2 lemon, Meyer if possible, cut into thin half moons

•1 tablespoon capers, rinsed

•2-3 Bay leaves, fresh if possible

•1 healthy pinch red chili flakes

•3-4 stems of fresh herbs(rosemary, thyme or oregano)

•Olive oil

•Fleur de sel or Kosher salt

•Cracked black pepper

•Small length of butcher twine

•1 tbsp flat leaf parsley or thyme, rough chopped

Instructions:

•Heat oven at 300º.

•Take chicken out of the fridge, place on a sheet try or large plate, pat dry with a paper towel and salt and pepper both sides. Set aside to come up to room temp.

•Take the herbs, place them flat and parallel against the bay leaf, wrap them together in barber-pole fashion, tying off the loose ends.

•In Dutch oven or large heavy bottom pot, add a heavy drizzle of oil to medium hot Dutch oven. Add onions, fennel and garlic, stir to coat, cooking until slightly tender. (About 10 mins.)

•Remove pan from heat, fold in the lemon pieces, capers and chili flakes.

•Place chicken legs on top of the onion mixture in one layer, trying to not overlap if possible.

•Add wine and enough stock to come just about halfway up the sides of the chicken legs. 

•Tuck the herbs between two of the legs, cover tightly with the lid or better yet with foil, and place in over for 1 hour.

•Remove covering, increase oven temp to 425º, cook for 20-25 mins. Until chicken takes on a nice color.

•Remove from oven, serve over steamed brown rice, farro or barley, making sure to spoon onion mixture and juices over each piece. Top with chopped herbs.

Oxtail Bourguignon

Serves: 6 

Prep Time: 1 hour 

Cooking Time: 4 hours

Ingredients:

• 8 slices fatty bacon, sliced across into 1/2" segments
• Olive oil
• 3 large fresh flat leaf parsley sprigs
• 3 large fresh thyme sprigs
• 2 large fresh bay leaves, bruised
• 1 tablespoon plus 1 1/2 cups all purpose flour
• 1 tablespoon butter
• 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• 4 to 4 1/4 pounds meaty oxtail pieces, trimmed of excess fat
• 1 cups finely diced onions
• 1 cup finely diced carrot plus 6 medium carrots
• 1 cup finely diced celery
• 4 large garlic cloves, lightly crushed and peeled, left whole
• 1 3/4 cups beef broth
• 1 1/2 cups red Burgundy wine (such as Beaujolais)
• 1 pound crimini mushrooms, quartered
• 6 small shallots, blanched 1 minute, peeled and thinly sliced
• 1 tbsp rough chopped flat lea parsley
• 1 tsp rough chopped thyme

Instructions:

• Tie parsley, thyme, and bay leaves together for bouquet garni, set aside.
• Place bacon in heavy large pot over medium-high heat, cook until lightly browned and crisp. Using slotted spoon, transfer bacon to a paper towel lined plate. Pour drippings into small bowl. 
• Return 5-6 tablespoons or so drippings to pot (add olive oil, if necessary).
• Once cool enough to handle, rough chopped bacon, set aside.
• Stir 1 tablespoon flour and butter in small bowl to smooth paste.
• Whisk 1 1/2 cups flour, 2 teaspoons salt, 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, and nutmeg in medium bowl. Add oxtails, a few pieces at a time, to seasoned flour and toss to coat completely.
• Heat bacon drippings in pot over medium-high heat. Working in batches, add oxtails and brown on all sides, about 6 minutes per batch. Transfer oxtails to bowl after each batch.
• Preheat oven to 300º.
• Reduce heat to medium-low. Add chopped onions, diced carrot, celery and minced garlic to pot. Sauté until onions soften, 5 to 6 minutes. Add mushrooms and shallot, sauté for 8-10 mins. more. Return oxtails and any accumulated juices to pot. Add bouquet garni, then broth and wine. 
• Bring to low-boil, then cover tightly and place in oven for 2 1/2-3 hrs., checking meat after 2 hours.
• Once meat is well tender, gently skim any fat visible on surface, then remove oxtails to a plate or tray, discard bouquet garni.
• Using an immersion blender, food processor or food mill, blend onion-mushroom mixture until smooth.
• Season to taste with salt and freshly cracked black pepper.
• Spoon sauce liberally on serving platter, top with oxtails and litter reserved parsley and thyme over meat. Serve!
• Note: Can be made 1 day ahead. Cool 1 hour. Refrigerate uncovered until cold, then cover and keep refrigerated. Remove from oven, set on counter for 30 mins., warm over low heat before serving.

 Red Wine and Cocoa Braised Short Ribs

(Serves 4)

Ingredients:

•3 tbsp. olive oil

•3 lb. boneless short ribs

•Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

•Unsweetened cocoa powder

•2 stalks celery, chopped

•1 large yellow onion, chopped

•1 medium carrot, chopped

•5-6 cloves garlic, smashed & peeled

•1⁄4 cup tomato paste

•3 cups full-bodied red wine

•2 cups beef stock

•3 sticks cinnamon

•2 bay leaves, 2 sprigs rosemary, 2 large sprigs thyme

•Pinch ground clove

•1 oz. Pastis(i.e. Pernod)

•Butter

•3 tbsp. pomegranate seeds

•1 tbsp chopped flat leaf parsley

•1/4 horseradish 

•3 tbsp crème fraîche 

Instructions: 

•Heat oven to 325°.

•Heat oil in an 8-qt. Dutch oven over medium-high heat. 

•Season ribs well with salt and pepper, dust with cocoa.

•Working 9in batches, brown ribs(8-10 mins.). Transfer to plate. 

•Add onion, celery, carrot and garlic to pan, cook until softened(6-8 mins.) 

•Add tomato pasted, cook for 3-4 mins. 

•Add wine, scraping up any fond that formed on pan, reduce slightly. 

•Add stock and pastis, bring to simmer. 

•Add clove, stir to combine. Add ribs and bouquet garni. Again bring up to simmer.

•Cover tightly, bake until fork-tender, about 2 1/2-3 hrs.(Check at 2 hours.)

•Transfer ribs to plate, discard bout garni, and once slightly cooled, pour braising liquid into a food processor. CARFEULLY, blend, starting on low, to guard against spilling over of burning liquid.

•Return to pan, place on med.-high heat, toss in a knock of butter, some salt and pepper.

•Mix the crème fraîche, horseradish, salt and cracked pepper together in small bowl.

•Once butter is well mixed into sauce, spoon on to plate or shallow bowl. Place rib on top, hit with dollop of horseradish sauce, litter with pomegranate seeds and reserved parsley. Serve.